Info

Please read this manual carefully! This can avoid misunderstandings !
Technical knowledge is recommanded! Wrong soldering can cause damage!

For the first test you should use a regulated power supply and not the Lipo (battery) !
Wrong soldering or short circuit can destroy the electronics ! Use a power supply of 12V/500mA.

Rigger

Mounting the Motor

Mount the motor first bevor insertoing the cables.

The motors and the angle adapter are mounted with two screws. To avoid loosing the motors, use a little drop of Threadlocker.

ATTENTION: The screws should be screwed firmly. If the screws are screwed too tightly, the threads can be destroyed!

The threads on the motor (above/below left/right) have different distances!

For a better yaw function you can install on each motor a angle adapter. This 3° angle adapter plates are fitted between the engine and the rigger.
The included mounting screws are screwed through the rigger and adapter.
It is important that the adapter is mounted in a left-turning engine with the beveled side to the left. In a right rotating motor, the beveled side looks to the right.

More information, including the installation can be found here: angle adapter

install the motor-, LED-cables

Also mount the red and one black 0,5mm cable (in suitable length) into the riggers wich obtain a LED-stripe or a buzzer.
Please be carefull while installing the cables.

Insert the cable like you see below.

The cable of the Motor comes out of the hole on the left side of the rigger! (see picture)

Example picture

Tips:

• Stick or solder wires together before pulling them through the hole.

• if needed, attatch a string to the wires and pull that through first.
  
  

Attention: If you connect the motorcables, it is difficult to turn the motor!

Propeller Mount

The three screws of the propeller mount should be firmly screwed. In this case use a suitable screwdriver!
Later you can mount the propeller like the picture show.

Example: MK3538 Motor

mounting and connecting the LED-strip

COMMENT: The color of the LED-strip of the Set can vary. Here we describe it with red and blue LED!
The LED-strips of different colors can look equal. Before assembly, the color can be determined by applying a voltage. Terefore a power supply (12V) or a 9V battery that can be used.

A LED-strip consists of 6 LED's (it could be, that you have to cut a strip)

On the red rigger at the front you can put the red LED-strip. Then put the blue LED-strip on the black riggers.
Now you can solder the red and black Silicone cable (0.5mm²) in the right polarity ("+" red / "-" black) to the LED-strip .
Finally the LED-strip can be shrinked with the transparent shrink hose.

Flight Ctrl. 2.1 - missing parts

The FlightCtrl is already fitted with all needed components.

The FCV2.5 can be connected to the powerboard via the molex cable.

When using the Molexkabel between FlightCtrl and powerboard, you don't have to solder the I2C bus, the buzzer and the power cable to the FlightCtrl.
The buzzer is connected directly to the appropriate solder points of the powerboard (Buzzer / -).
The I2C-bus and the voltage supply are provided from the power distribution via the Molex.
Alternatively, the FC V2.5 can be connected with individual cable to the power distributor. But then you don't have to use the Molexcable.

When mounting the FlightCtrl, the printed arrow shows to the rigger No.1 (red rigger). The PCB populated side facing up.

layout / wiring FC ME 2.5

Describes how a receiver is connected to the FlightCtrl: FlightCtrl 2.5

Powerboard

Power Distributor - Top

Power Distributor - Bottom

Bottom view of the Okto XL V3 - Combi distribution board..

Supply

There is an already installed powercable on the distribution board.

Assembling Centerplate

Two Centerplates hold the riggers and the electronics together.

The printed side of the Centerplate always shows up. The arrow always points forward.
The red arm is front. The rigger, starting with the red one, clockwise from 1-8.

Example

At the top centerplate the eight spacers (M3x10) are assembled first. On this eight spacers the power distributor is mounted later. Insert the eight spacers with the thread into the centerplate and secureit with a nut.
In the next step, the lower and the upper centerplate (with the spacers), can be mounted with the cover holder. Therefore you need 2x plastic screws (M3x16) / plastic nuts (M3)for each cover holder.
If you have a cover holder with 1cm high in you set, you doesn't need the spacer plate that you see in the picture!

Now you can mount the riggers.
The short riggers (2, 4, 6, 8) are fastened with two metal screws in the middle of the center plate, each with a self-locking nut.
The long riggers (1, 3, 5, 7) are fixed with one metal screw in the middle of the center plate, each with a self-locking nut.
The second metal screw is used from below to attache the damper (M3x15).
On the rubber damper is still one each M3 plastic nut or a spacer (M3x10) screws to the FlightCtrl give a little more distance.
Those objectives are later attached to FlightCtrl.

On the outer ring of the Center Plate, all boom is secured with two plastic screws (M3x16) / plastic nuts (M3).

The cables are led out as in the picture to see.

Wiring of the buzzer cable

assembly with buzzer adapter

The buzzer can also be mounted with the buzzer adapter to the Kopter. But take care that the Buzzer is not mounted too close to the FlightCtrl.
This could disturbe the compass!

We recommend to mount the Buzzer on a 15mm plastic spacer bolt like on the picture. Do not mount it on the Lipo holder. In case of a crash it could cut the cable to the Buzzer.

How to mount the buzzer adapter: Buzzer Adapter

The Lipo cable is inserted through the Center Plate. Later you can fix it with a cable tie.

After the power board was screwed onto the eight spacers, the motor cable can be solder onto the BL-Ctrl. The result:

The arrow of the powerboard shows to the red rigger!

Info:
Motor connection A = gray, B = blue, C = black cable on the uneven Motor addresses (clockwise rotation).
Motor connection A = blue, B = gray, C = black Kabel bei den even Motor addresses (anticlockwise direction).
Just in case during the motor test (later) on motor would turn in the wrong direction, simply exchange two of the three cables.

Lighting

Connection Powerboard Okto2-26:

You can connect the lighting (LED) directly to the "+" and "-" pad at the lower and upper side.

Connection Powerboard OktoXL:

You can connect the lighting (LED) directly to the outer "+" and "-" pad.
Connect the LED's like you see here:

Buzzer

Now the buzzer can be soldered. (BUZZ = +)

<- distributor Okto 2-26

<- distributor OktoXL

<- OktoXL V3

Lipoholder

The Lipoholder can be mounted on four bolts of the cover holder.

connect the FC

The FlightCtrl2.1 will be connected later with the Molex-cable.

The printed arrow on the FlightCtrl must point to the on the rigger No.1 (red rigger) !

HiLander-26

You can mount the HiLander-26 on each rigger.

You can mount it on rigger 1-3-5-7. If you use a camera mount, you can use rigger 2-4-6-8.

HiLander-26 (Version1)

HiLander-26 (Version2)

mount transparent cover

Put the cover over the riggers for marking. You can fix it by a tape. Please notenthat the upperpart of the cover is a square. Put one edge of this square towards rigger Nr.1

Example mounting on a quadroKopter. On a HexaKopter OktoKopter the sequence is identical!

Now mark the position of the rigger with a pencil.

Now it can be cut with scissors and cut the protruding edge.

The transparent cover is then attached and secured with a screw. For this you can drilling with a 2mm drill to the cover and the cover holder.

If you use the new version of the cover holder you can use the recess on it.
Attention: The recess should be shown up! A matching bolt is located on each motor.

The transparent cover should be painted in any color from the inside. This will save the light-sensitive altitude sensor from malfunction. This can happend, if sun's rays strike on the sensor directly.

Cooling hole in the cover

If you use payload > ca. 700g or you fly in high temperatures, a cooling hole (2cm) in the cover might be useful to avoid heat accumulation.

First start

Now the Kopter is ready assembled and soldered. The next step is now to check and set the Kopter and the function of the transmitter.
For this we use the KopterTool.

Where you can get the KopterTool and what you have to check/set is explained in simple steps.

Here we go to the easy "steps": Initial startup

safety

A Kopter can be dangerous. Safety comes first, so read carefully:

• SafetyFirst

• Safety references of LiPos