Technical Data

Final weight: 515grBR With 2250mAh 3s akku: 707grBR 10x45 propellers from the shop attached to the ROXXY engines with the Propellermitnehmer (propeller holder).BR Frame is still in evolution. Just for testing purpose and parameters setting for now.BRBR ImageLink(http://gallery.mikrokopter.de/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=13217,http://gallery.mikrokopter.de/main.php/v/tech/mk_50_complete.jpg.html) BRBR

Engines

ROXXY 2824-34

Electronics

Flight Ctrl v1.2 (preassembled)BR Brushless Ctrl v1.2 (preassembled)BR

Frame

40 cm aluminum frame with centerplates from the Mikrokopter shop.BR Classic! ;)BR

Accessories

MySmartUSB interface to program the MK through USB port instead of serial (my laptop doesnt have serials ).BR

Aknowledgement

I would never have been able to build a MK without the support by the people on the forum and on rcgroups. Special thanks to ArthurP for guiding me through the process of making the MK Tool communicate with the MSU.

MK building log

BR

BR Legend: BR <MK> : The Mikrokopter of course! BR <FC> : [:en/FlightCtrlManual:FlightCtrl] - the main board of the MKBR <BLC> : [:en/BrushlessCtrl: BrushlessCtrl] - the brushless engine control boardBR <MSU> : [:en/MySmartUSB: MySmartUSB] - interface to update firmware and use the MKTBR <MKT> : [:en/MikroKopterTool: MikroKopterTool] - software to debug, set parameters and update firmware of both FC and BLCBR

BR BR This is a brief note on steps to take in order to bring your MK in the air.BR To be synthetic I will list 'what' to do, not 'how' to do it (nor why..... ) Refer to the wiki for further info.BR BR Disclaimer: BR I'm just a beginner! I'm making this list to guide myself in the building process as well. Therefore there is no pretension of completeness. Some topics may have been overlooked or misunderstood. An overall knowledge of the project is required to understand the list. I'll make a point to correct it whenever i gather more input and help from the friendly community and as i get more experienced. If you find any mistake or missing aspects please let me know.BR Note also that most of this list comes from other users, not me, who have taken their time to explain tasks in detail. My thanks to them!BR BR Valuable sources have been for me:BR http://www.mikrokopter.de BR http://forum.mikrokopter.de BR http://www.aplanding.com/smf/index.php?topic=470.0 by ssozonoff & pigsdontflyBR http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716870 rcgroupsBR http://www.baronerosso.net/forum/elimodellismo/16650-x-ufo-251.html[[BR]] BR BR BR Note: BR This step by step list refers to pre-assembled components ('vorbestuck' in German) bought from the MK shop. They are also checked and loaded with the bootloader and firmware.BR I also chose to use the MySmartUSB device rather than solder together the SerCon. For the simple reason that on many PCs and Laptops you dont have a serial port nowadays.BR BR This is a list of things to buy (other users may decide different parts).BR 1 x FlightCtrl v1.2 (verbestuck) [FC]BR 4 x BL-Ctrl v1.2 (vorbestuck) [BLC]BR 4 x Roxxy 2824/34 brushless outrunnerBR 1 x ACT DSL-4top receiverBR 1 x Luftdrucksensoren MPX 4115A altitude sensorBR 4 x Propellermitnehmer (more for spares)BR 2 x Propellerpaar EPP 1045 (MORE for spares! )BR BR 1 X MySmartUSB (http://www.myavr.com)[[BR]] BR Frame: you choose! E.g. 10x10mm aluminum square tube and central plate from the mikrokopter shop. Simple and lightweight. But there are also beautiful machined frames as well.BR I went for the standard frame they sell in the shop. Simple, lightweight and effective. There's time later to produce a better frame suited for the camera I'm going to use.BR BR ** SAFETY FIRST **BR - No one wants a burnt circuit. Before connecting / disconnecting to FC or BLC (or any other component) ALWAYS disconnect power first.BR - It is possible to be 'shut out' of the processor in case of problems during firmware flashing. Make sure to read all the documentation that describes AVR flashing of the tool you are going to use.BR BR BR Let's start!BR BR *MySmartUSB*BR This diagrams were made by user LoMe. Many Thanks!!! : BR You should make the following wiring:BR - from MSU to FC (10 pin serial port): used to set parameters wit MKT, check sensors, test engines, etc. ImageLink(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/ddd_pic/modellismo/MSU_FC_newconn.jpg)BRBR - from MSU to FC (6 pin ISP port): used for firmware flashing (you don't need to do it to fly the MK the first time but you will want to update it sometime in the future...)BR ImageLink(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/ddd_pic/modellismo/MSU_FC_ISP.jpg)BRBR - from MSU to BLC (10 pin serial port): used to update firmware (you don't need to do it to fly the MK the first time but you will want to update it sometime in the future...)BR http://gallery.mikrokopter.de/main.php/v/uploads/Mikrokopter-mySmartUSB.pdf.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1 BRBR *** FC and sensors ***BR The preassembled card comes with most parts SMD soldered on.BRBR ImageLink(http://gallery.mikrokopter.de/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=13208,http://gallery.mikrokopter.de/main.php/v/tech/mk_fc_03_parts.jpg.html) BR You still have to: BR - solder 1mm² wires for power on FC J1 (+) and J2 (-), (later on you can solder on them DEANS male connector). More about wiring later.BR - solder the switch. ssozonoff in his great threadBR http://www.aplanding.com/smf/index.php?topic=470.0 BR suggests: BR "When soldering the switch you will notice that the seperation between the two sets of pins on the switch is larger than the thickness of the board. What I did was to solder one side down and flush with the board, then stick some wire through the holes in the board up to the switch pins on the other side and solder those to the board and switch"BR - solder the ISP 6 pin connector (SV1)BR from the wiki: "The ATMEL controller will be programmed via an ISP interface. This interface can be also be used for a fast communication (synchronous serial) with other controllers."BR - solder the serial 10 pin connectorBR from the wiki: "Here we connect a PC for testing and calibration. The signal is TTL and not V24. For this reason we need to connect an interface converter if we want to communicate with the standard serial interface of the PC. Later on this interface can also be used for the communication (asynchronous) with other controllers."BR - solder the ISP 6 pin connectorBR - solder wires to receiver on bottom side (you can cut in two and use a servo cable both for this and the camera servo). Female plug. Be sure to keep 5V, GND and signal on correct wire. It's wise to keep to the standard color scheme: red = 5V, black / brown = GND, white / orange = signal. Check receiver datasheet for power, ground and signal pins.BR - solder the camera servo wire (male plug) - solder the two capacitors (C7 & C10) on upper side. Respect polarity!BR - solder buzzer on lower side (SP1). Respect polarity! Positive it towards the board border.BR - solder the 5V voltage regulator (IC4). Respect polarity! (see pic)BR - solder the pressure sensor on the FC. Respect polarity! (see pic, silvery side is towards inner board, black side towards angle).BR ImageLink(http://gallery.mikrokopter.de/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=13211,http://gallery.mikrokopter.de/main.php/v/tech/mk_fc_04_up_assembled.jpg.html) BR ImageLink(http://gallery.mikrokopter.de/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=13214,http://gallery.mikrokopter.de/main.php/v/tech/mk_fc_05_down_assembled.jpg.html) BRBR High components like the pressure sensor and the 5V regulator may be bent to allow a better placement of the FC.BR Pressure sensor needs to be covered to work properly. More about that later.BRBR Testing the FCBR Now we check if our soldering work was good. For testing is strongly advised to use a current limited power supply. Supply current needed for FC and 4 BLC is about 200mA.BR I used a small NiMh 350Mah battery (an original one from X-Ufo ), just added the right connectors with duct tape... crude.BR You can refer at the wiki page about the [:en/FlightCtrlManual:FlightCtrl] to see were the mentioned pads are. - 5,0V Test of the digital supply. Check at TP1 to GND. Voltage should be between 4,9 and 5,1 V.BR - 3,0V Test of the analog supply. Check at TP2 to GND. Voltage should be between 2,9 and 3,1 VBR - gyro amplifier calibrationBR The outputs of the gyro amp (Pins 8, 7 and 1 of IC2) should show a voltage of about 1,2-1,8V (ideal value would be 1,5V) in idle state (board/copter not moving). The factory adjusted output signal of the gyros may vary slightly, we must therefore sometimes correct the signal.BR - disconnect the test battery batteryBR BR Steps needed with MySmartUSBBR Installation for Win Xp and VistaBR BR http://forum.mikrokopter.de/topic-752.html BR http://forum.mikrokopter.de/topic-1909.html BR http://www.file-upload.net/download-452168/Mikrokopter-mySmartUSB.pdf.html BR BR <TBD: Make detailed explanation with mySmartUSB>BR BR - switch the mySmartUSB jumpers to power off settingBR - all jumpers on MSU to OFF except 2 for data communication.BR

- to read and modify parameters of the FC through the MK-tool connect the mySmartUSB to the 10 pin serial port of the FCBR Connect battery and turn on the FC. Through MKTool activate air pressure sensor (Hohenregler). 'Scheriben' to set changes in FC. 'Speichem' to save them on PC (<TBD: saves just the ones currently shown in latest MK-tool too?>).BR Turn off and on the FC. Through MKTool check if sensors are working correctly (SCOPE)BR - Disconnect battery. Plug receiver with crystal in. Connect battery, turn on and, using the MK-Tool, check if radio signal is receivedBR - for gyro recalibration (if needed) keep throttle stick in top left corner with FC kept still, in an horizontal position.BR BR BR

Soon to be continued...

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